Los Angeles’ reflection in a plate: The flavors of this diverse city come together in its greatest restaurants. It’s an expanding culinary mosaic whose first pieces were set at City, Jonathan Gold writes.

Woo! Jonathan Gold is back at The Times!

Photo: From left, Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken are the celebrity chef-owners behind the amazing food and ambiance at Border Grill in Los Angeles. Credit: Mark Boster / Los Angeles Times

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